MASK PREPARATION TIPS

 

Your newly purchased diving mask is fogging up.

You've already cleared your mask once, but within minutes your vision is

completely blurred again. Fogging of your mask is the number one irritation

factor for every diver. There is a lot of talk about this problem on the

waterfront. Some divers have a better solution than others. Only in practice

does this usually not turn out the way it should. What is really the cause of

this problem and what is the best solution?

 

My diving mask is fogging

It is not a complicated problem. In fact, if you know the cause, the solution is

quite simple. One of the problems arises in the manufacture of diving masks.

A 'silicone skirt' (face piece) and mask strap are usually mounted in a mask.

During the production of the skirt and mask band, silicone granules are

injected into a so-called mould at a high temperature and pressure. This

chemical process releases small amounts of (harmless) silicone vapours that

are the real problem, because the chemical process continues for some time.

The silicone parts are processed during production together with the other

parts such as the frame, the mask strap buckles and of course the lenses, to

eventually become a diving mask. After the mask is fully assembled, it is

stored in the packaging and it can be sent to its destination country to find a

new owner.

 

 

During the journey, the silicone still slightly evaporates and this vapour

precipitates as a kind of condensation on, among other things, the lenses.

And it is precisely that attack on the lenses that causes the fogging!

When purchasing a new mask, it is advised to clean the lenses with a special

cleaning agent to prevent fogging. Don't have that at home? 

Then a nonabrasive toothpaste or a silicone-free detergent is often sufficient.

 

That advice is correct, but not complete. You will notice this immediately

when you go under water with your new mask. Because then the irritation

arises, your new diving mask still fogs up! How this is possible is very easy to

explain. As described earlier, the silicone piece is still steaming from

production. This vapour layer is not only on the lenses, but also on the face

piece itself, the mask strap, the frame, the buckles and, above all, the

packaging. Oh yes, and in many cases also the mask box.

If only the lenses are cleaned, the other parts are not yet 'clean', with the

result that this deposit simply evaporates and returns to the lenses. Result:

another fogged mask! Clearing deposits on the lenses is therefore insufficient.

When purchasing a new mask, you must thoroughly clean the entire mask,

but also the mask box. All vapour deposits should be washed from all parts.

 

Special cleaning agent

The special cleaner available at the dive shop is perfect for the lenses, but not

for the other parts. To make the new masks vapour-free, use a silicone-free

detergent and wash thoroughly under the tap with warm water.

You should also bear in mind that a new mask can still vaporize, so you

should store it next to your mask box in the closet for the first time. This is to

prevent the last bits of vapour from literally evaporating and not hitting your

mask. If you don't, you're back to square one. No problem, but you will have

to perform the entire cleaning ritual from scratch.

 

Diving mask fogs up: add a fire?

It is strictly not recommended to use other means and methods of cleaning.

In practice we see defective masks as a result of the use of, for example, brake

cleaner, copper polish and abrasives. In addition, there are cleaning practices

to prevent fogging that should absolutely not be used, such as burning the

lenses clean with a lighter.

This only cleans the lenses and poses a risk of fire damage to the mask. The

plastic parts cannot withstand the heat of the fire. Result: a mask that will fog

up again and possibly deformed parts with leakage as a result! Another

method that you should never use is washing your mask in the dishwasher.

The temperature of the dishwasher is too high and the cleaning chemicals are

too aggressive. Result: maybe a clean mask, but chemically bleached and

weathered parts and also deformed parts with a chance of a leaking mask. In

all cases, use common sense when handling your mask.

 

Spitting in your mask?

Do you have to spit in your mask before the dive? Spitting has been shown to

be effective as an anti-fog, provided you follow the cleaning protocol

beforehand. Only saliva is full of enzymes and bacteria. The long-term

consequence will be that they will settle in the edges of the mask and form

deposits there. Little by little, your mask will weather and mould.

Unless you wash your mask thoroughly after every dive, this method is

obsolete. It is recommended to use an anti-fog agent. This is a liquid that you

put on the inside of the lenses. In the corridors this is also called 'fake spit'.

Anti-condensation film

TUSA also has an anti-condensation film. Stick this foil on the inside of your

mask to prevent fogging. When using this foil, it is still necessary that the

diving mask is first made vapour-free. The manufacturing vapour can also

settle on the foil and then your mask will still fog up. Best wishes!

 

Sunscreen and face cream

Be careful with the use of sunscreen and face cream right before diving. These

cosmetics naturally contain a greasy substance that influences the fogging of

your mask during diving. In addition, there are aggressive agents on the

market that can affect the materials of your diving mask, especially the

'sprays' are most disastrous for the plastic parts of your mask and other

equipment.

In practice, there are several examples where sunscreen spray and antimosquito spray are sprayed on a little too casually and also end up on the

equipment, resulting in permanent damage.

Disinfect diving mask

At the time of corona we all come into contact with the disinfection of diving

materials during, for example, the diving courses. Of course it is more sensible

that every student and every certified diver purchase his/her own mask.

If the situation is such that in this example the mask is used by several divers,

then it must be cleaned. Be careful with which means you do this! There are

many chemical disinfectants that are too aggressive and will damage the

plastic of the mask. Therefore do not use chemicals! A little soapy water in

dishwashing liquid is more than enough and prevents the diving mask from

breaking.

 

Cross-contamination

Be careful how you store your mask! It may seem like a good idea to store it

in the foot pocket of your fin for protection during transport. However, if

these fins are (fairly) new, then the foot pockets are also greasy. This fat can

again lead to deposits on your mask. All in all, your diving mask is protected,

but it is again 'contaminated'. So don't!

 

Hothead

Condensation occurs when there is a difference in temperature. When diving

with a bright sun, your face also gets warm. After rigging up your gear and

donning the suit, you'll soon get very hot. If you then put on your mask and

then put your head under the water, the temperature difference between the

water and your face is the greatest.

Despite all precautions, this can still lead to condensation on the inside.

Practice has taught us to first cool down the face in the water before putting

on your mask. This saves considerably on fogging!